Marsaxlokk

The fishing village

Marsaxlokk (pronounced "marsa-SHLOK") is Malta's most picturesque fishing village, set in a bay on the southeastern coast. The harbour is full of colourful luzzu boats, traditional Maltese fishing boats painted green, yellow, red, and blue, with the characteristic Eyes of Osiris painted on their bows.

Eyes on the bow

The tradition of painting eyes on boat bows dates to the Phoenicians (c. 1000 BC), who believed the eyes protected the boat from evil and aided navigation. An identical tradition exists in Greece, Turkey, and Egypt. In Malta, the eyes have survived over 3,000 years, though today they are more decorative than magical.

The Sunday market

Every Sunday morning, Marsaxlokk's waterfront transforms into a fish market (il-Monti), where fishermen sell their catch straight from the boats. Besides fish (swordfish, tuna, sea bream, octopus), there are stalls selling honey, olives, capers, lace, and souvenirs. This is the freshest fish in all of Malta, at lower prices than in restaurants.

Practical tip: Come on Sunday morning (8:00-12:00) for the market. Waterfront restaurants serve fresh fish but at tourist prices. Better to buy fish at the market and cook at your accommodation. Bus 81 from Valletta (30 minutes). On weekdays, Marsaxlokk is quiet and equally beautiful.