St John's Co-Cathedral

Plain facade, jaw-dropping interior

St. John's Co-Cathedral in Valletta looks austere from outside, almost like a fortress. But step inside and you enter one of the richest Baroque interiors in the world. Every centimetre of the vaulted ceiling, walls, and floor is covered in gilded carvings, paintings, and marble inlay. The church was built in 1573-1578 to a design by Maltese architect Girolamo Cassar, but the present decoration is the work of Calabrian artist Mattia Preti from 1661-1666.

Eight chapels, eight tongues

Along the nave are eight side chapels, each belonging to a different "tongue" (langue) of the Order of St. John: Provence, Auvergne, France, Aragon, Castile, England with Bavaria, Germany, and Italy. Each tongue competed to have the most lavish chapel, producing eight miniature masterpieces side by side. The floor contains 374 tombstones of knights, each with its own coat of arms and marble mosaic.

Caravaggio in Malta

In the oratory hangs "The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist", Caravaggio's largest painting (361 x 520 cm) and the only work he ever signed. Caravaggio painted it in Malta in 1608, having fled a death sentence in Rome. He hid his signature in the blood flowing from St. John's neck. Nearby hangs his second work: "Saint Jerome Writing".

Practical tip: Entry costs EUR 15 (2026). Come in the morning (before 10 AM) as afternoon crowds from cruise ships block the entrance. Audio guide is included. No shorts or bare shoulders allowed.