Crystal Palace (Is-Serkin)

Scouts report an establishment in Rabat with a queue stretching all the way to the cathedral. The name "Crystal Palace" suggests a palace — in reality it is a bar the size of a monastic cell. But what does that matter when it serves a substance for which knights would sell their own horses. Pastizzi. Triangular parcels of filo pastry filled with ricotta or peas. Price: 50 cents. FIFTY CENTS. For a sum that would not buy you water in Valletta, you receive a hot, crispy, golden triangle of perfection. Explorer Wojtek ordered ten and regretted none. The Commander tried both varieties. Ricotta: creamy, delicate, with a hint of cheese. Pea with anchovies: more filling, bolder, with a salty accent. After fierce deliberation, the Order ruled: both versions are masterworks. The queue is long but moves fast — the lady behind the counter dispenses pastizzi at machine-gun speed. Eating takes place standing up, in the street, in the company of local pensioners, bus drivers, and tourists who cannot believe the price. TACTICAL NOTE: Arrive in the morning — after 11 AM the queue gets serious. Pastizzi are best fresh from the oven. Do not order one "to try" — take at least three straight away. This is Malta's democratic food: eaten by everyone, from the prime minister to the fisherman. The Order rates: 5 shields out of 5. No discussion. The only place to receive a perfect score. Explorer Wojtek weeps with joy.