Mġarr ix-Xini combines sheltered water, a watchtower and rugged slopes. It is Gozo beyond the postcard bus route.
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Check swimming conditions and access; the road to the bay is narrow and not suited to improvised parking.
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At the bottom of a canyon so deep the sun only peers in at noon, a fisherman and his kin run an establishment whose menu changes daily. A chalk blackboard — not a card — because the sea decides, not the cook.
Mgarr ix-Xini's deep, canyon-cut bay doubled as a French coastal town in Angelina Jolie's 2015 film, co-starring Brad Pitt. Filmed here August-November 2014. A secluded pebble beach in a stunning natural gorge.
The tower guards the entrance to one of Gozo's most sheltered bays and shows how coastal defence worked with the landscape.