Where to Eat in Malta (Without Going Broke)

Rule number one in Malta: if there is someone outside a restaurant waving a laminated photo menu at you — walk away. It is a trap. The food will be frozen, overpriced and disappointing.

Maltese cuisine is genuinely wonderful, but you need to know where to look. Here is a subjective list of places where you will eat honestly, generously and deliciously — without emptying your wallet.

Meat: Fenek and Bragioli

• United Restaurant (Mġarr, Gozo): Looks like a 1990s canteen — checked tablecloths, zero décor. But their wine-braised rabbit (Fenek) and snails are world-class. Maltese families eat here on Sundays. Note: this is Mġarr on Gozo, not the mainland.
• Gululu (St. Julian's): One of the very few places in the tourist centre that genuinely holds its quality. Great Ftajjar flatbreads and local starters. Bay view included.

Fish: Straight from the Sea

• Tartarun (Marsaxlokk): Pricey, but worth every cent. If you want fish that was swimming that morning — go here. Their tuna tartare haunts my dreams. Book ahead.
• Roots (Marsaxlokk): The more relaxed option. Pavement tables, views over the colourful Luzzu fishing boats. Order the Catch of the Day and stop thinking.

Street Food and Cheap Eats

• Crystal Palace (Rabat): The kingdom of Pastizzi. Open almost around the clock, 50 cents for a piece of heaven. Non-negotiable stop.
• Buchman's Snack Bar (Gzira): The best tuna Ftira on the island. Costs next to nothing, fills you up for the entire day.